Trichy, Tanjavur and Chidambaram
Boarded Tamil Nadu Transport bus from Shinganellur Bus stand in Coimbatore at about 10 am for Trichy.
The Rock Fort Temple
The road is good but the atmosphere a bit hot. Single stop over at some place where the male passengers emptied their bladders somewhat in a formation at the periphery (not facing the passengers in the parked buses by God's grace!). God knows what the ladies did !
Moments when we feel sorry for ourselves !
Its not a tall order of things if we have to make arrangements for the public at public places.
Preferred to control the itch till Trichy rather than becoming a fallen figure in own eyes.
Reached Trichy by 3 pm .
True.
3/10/2014
By the time the Rock Fort was through it was about 11 am.
Visit to Sravanabelegola during the previous month came as a spoiler of sorts during this Rock Fort odyssey.
The very concept of selection of some tall stone edifice for a place of worship in itself has some Jain mindset of not disturbing anything live - trees/wood included.
The stone steps leading up - one for ascent and the other for descent was a replica of what is at Belegola and the idols on the walls too had striking similarity.
No Bahubali could be seen anywhere!
There are odd writings on the rock surface legible for a keen onlooker, but no glass covers for protection of these writings by the ASI.
The idol at the apex is of Ganesha and a lot of devotees could be seen offering prayers and the priests were busy distributing prasada and accepting offerings.
As the place at top is rather small, sufficient enough for less than ten people at a time, the two dwarapalaka idols with their heads and arms severed came in view just after one took one's eyes off Ganesha and turned.
Oh my God ! Who could have done this ?
If it were a Hindu temple from day one on, this wouldn't have happened.
If it were done by the Muslim kings in later years, well they might have caused damage to the deities as well, which has not happened.
Was this a Jain Temple which was occupied by Hindu fanatics ? Who knows ?
The money this visitor planned to put in the hundika ended up in the stretched hands of an old the beggar lady waiting on the steps !
Several doubts cropped up all of a sudden.
May be ; anyone could desecrate any holy place , drive away all the saints and sadhus who propagated ahimsa above all other things. Millions of their followers , all of a sudden becoming aimless ?!!.
Is south India of the present giving us such a picture of hapless aimless people for ages, especially Tamil Nadu ?
By then, they might have imbibed a life without all these Gods - perhaps
Why else should they flock around the film stars who preach nothing of the sort but portray virtues only on the silver screen or why they itch to be at Sabarimala where continuous chanting of "sharanam ,sharanam.." causes excitement in them ? - perhaps it resonated with something similar in their bones - what their forefathers were once quite accustomed to - say "Budham sharanam.."? !!
May not be a Jain link, but a Buddhist one - who knows?
Well ; We all know for sure that such things remain in our genes far too long - Call it some intuition, some impulse or what so ever.
But one thing is for sure, what ever is picked up from life and formed as a habitual behaviour is sure to get passed over - like in birds, other animals , fish and all else which include their tastes, skills of migration, predatory and breeding habits , admiration , hatred and what all other things we are yet to fathom.
Man alone can not be different !
The multitude of an already awakened Dravidian commoner, who spoke the immensely rich Tamil language capable of expressing even delicate difference in feelings, respect, adoration, loath , who embraced all that was good for an ideal fellow friendly society- thanks to those preachers and teachers who sought nothing in return- the Digambara Saints- the Thirthankaras, The Buddhist Monks - and these millions had to roam about rudderless for ages, till they found some savior in the form of some matinee idol !!??
Had the link not been broken, Oh My - what sort of a perfect citizenry our India might have have had !
Oh; Only wishful thinking.
What comes to mind is Jayant Narlikar's short story based on catastrophe theory and Prithwiraj Chouhan's death in the eventful war with the invading king.
Coming back to the desecrated Uchi Pillai Kovils or the captured shrines and temples - these might have served the elite Brahmins and the rich -perhaps -till the others got their right even to enter temples - may be.
Was this Uchi Pillai an adolescent Digambara as is seen at Sravanabelegola?
A multitude of questions propped up in the mind during the descent from Rock Fort Temple.
The reason no bus conductor could tell me anything about Rock Fort Temple is due to this reason ? Or perhaps Uchi Pillayar Koyil is what one should ask for ! Do not know.
But who beheaded those statues in front of Lord Ganesha ?
And why didn't anyone , over the years do anything to replace those which causes pain to the onlooker?
A beautiful church in French architectural style greets one who comes out of the fort. Since it resembled St.Philomina's in Mysore , preferred to give it a go by for the moment and boarded an Express bus for Tanjavur or Tanjore?
The Mighty Big Temple
This temple about which much has been heard over the years could be seen from a distance.
The time - almost 10 am and the hot Sun already up.
Luggage and footwear given for safe keeping and got inside the temple compound.
The entrance clearly shows two sections - the lower one which is almost in a Hoysala style and the upper figures - clad in colour dress and males with mustaches clearly suggests of later additions.The older section was what was interesting and one could only appreciate the work with disbelief.
Mammoth rock pillars of some 30 ft height - in a single block - is too much of a thing to negotiate some 1000 years ago, when none of the modern day caterpillars or JCBs were handy.
How could they mount it on top if it were in one piece?
Plenty of answers can be had from different sources - such as a ramp of 6.5 kms, hoards of elephants etc etc.
But the real sight is something of a wonder for ages (withstood some 6 earthquakes, and many fires some say!)How many might have perished underneath - nobody knows.
Its really a wonder worth visiting.
Stepping on the lengthy stone roofed structures on all the four sides, what comes to mind is Sravanabelegola again - with Theerthankaras of different eras occupying pedestals lined up along the long stretch.
Here, what one finds is Shivlingas and Shivlingas and nothing else.
Shivism succeeding Jainism ? Shivism overpowering Jainism at some point of time.
Or Was it really a Jain temple where the mighty Chola King preferred to have an even mightier Shive temple in the middle.
Perhaps, the makers might have been influenced by the structure at
Sravanabelegola and preferred to have such a side setting.
Thanjavur could be no place for a Jain Temple as there are no imposing rocks anywhere around.
Shivalinga inside the temple proper is an imposing 3 meters and even the dwarapalakas measure some 2 and a half meters ! The finesse of Halebidu is but missing. It attracts one by its might raather than beauty.The various Bharatanatyam signs depicted by the figurines , the brick laid courtyard, the rectangular well , the various steps to and from the sidewalk all adds up to the glory.
Time - about 2 pm and one need to hurry lest the sights at Chidambaram would be missed.
Chidambaram
Time 5.30 pm and an entire expanse of Chidambaram temple complex of a few acres lay in front. Where to begin was the big question. For ease of access, thanks to the advise of a fellow passenger, took the south gate for entry. Left the footwear outside and took a re-look for some nearby landmarks and hurriedly went in.
If Thanjavur appeared mighty, this one is an incomparable beauty in granite. Rather than the images, what captures one's immediate attention is the exquisite symmetry of the structures. The huge one piece granite pillars on either side of the east side entrance is finely decorated on the sides. Once inside the main temple proper what awaits is rows and rows of exquisitely carved alleys, doors, pillars all replete with ornamentation.Devotees in plenty during dusk makes it all the more difficult for passage and as darkness started to intensify outside a quick run was the only means to complete the odyssey.
Better viewing at a leisurely pace next time.
Its almost 7.30 pm and the bus to Coimbatore for which booking has been made is to leave at 8.30 pm. Gave Chidambaram temple a last look and said adi
eu.
