Monday, November 11, 2019

Chitradurga Fort

Chitradurga is about 200 kms north of Bangalore and the question is whether a trip to this fort would be worth the effort , given the fact that it doesn't claim exhibit a blue print  of the human life , culture and civilization of the time.
What it does is to introduce us the fortification ideas of the time including mass production of gun powder using massive grinding stones which calls for a lot of power and human hours to accomplish the wishes of the mighty either to ward off threats or to wage more wars to amass wealth and fame.
Be it as it may , the Fort indeed looks pretty mighty on a hill top and the maze of foot steps are all well looked after.
There are places of worship and source of water and the place where once the palace stood is in ruins.
Stone work is mammoth and the gun power grinding mechanism has a stunning symmetry.
From the outside gate onwards , as one moves up the maze there are places for keeping watch , cannon holes and hiding places for soldiers.


Monday, October 21, 2019

Bhimbedka , Udaygiri , Sanchi and Khajuraho










Bhimbedka




The express way work currently underway between Bhopal and Hoshangabad was the main impediment as one has to take resort to the side roads which are humpy bumpy and what was in abundance was dust and smoke.
The Uber and other operators shy away once the destination is given.
The 40 odd kms took about two hours but once in Bhimbedka everything else was trivia.

'The Seat of Bhima' is one of the definitions but what one could make out is that the place was a shelter not just for one Bhima' but plenty of brave souls some millennia back who were good at art.

The ASI (Archeological Survey of India) people did a commendable job and are still at it and a big hug to them for show casing the whole place for public view.

The "auditorium cave" stands apart.
One has to walk 2 kms to the entrance from the main road and then again another 2 kms to the cave entrance.
The whole area is part of a reserve forest but except for some birds and squirrels , nothing comes to view probably they keep distance from the intruders.
There are trees and shadows everywhere and one does not feel the heat.
May be situation might be different in the summer months.
Whatever , the caves have got different silhouettes .. some resembling a boar , some a tortoise etc and one wonders whether Nature was at work for the appearance or some artists !
The two hours spent at Bhimbedka was worth.

Sanchi

Someone during the journey said that Sanchi Stupa was a copy of the famous Warangal Gate but one finds the opposite is true.

Whatever , the main Stupa is stupendous !


A solid rock .. nay a whole hillock shaped into a dome of perfect proportion.
Of course there are masonry work in between at places where the original rock might have had some gaps .. but on the whole it's a visual treat and when one walks through the sidewalk created with stone barricades ..

 strong enough to even keep away elephants !


A close look at the perfect positioning and inter connection made between adjacent pillars and the cross connection using heavy blocks of rocks finely carved out , one could not help wondering the artistry and craftsmanship of the masonry work.
Hats off !

The ruins at Sanchi is but a heartbreaking sight with valuable artwork shrewn all about and among them the  Ashoka Pillar in pieces.

The sheen of the outer surface of the pillar body is indicative enough of the craftsmanship and so were the smooth surface of the paved area where thousands might have walked for centuries with a mind full of bliss !

Well behaved staff , ready to clear the doubts and for directions is a boon.
The ASI Museum at the basement of the hillock on which the Stupas and the temples stand , has enough exhibits to quench the thirst of the needy.
One would wish , if the legacy of Buddhism thrived in India all thro  what would our country might have become .. The Leading Light of the World .. perhaps.
Eradication or perhaps erosion of the principles first and then the disappearance of the faith is perhaps the heaviest loss the sub continent

Udaygiri Caves


Its some 10 kms from Sanchi and the best way to reach is by hiring an auto taxi which would keep waiting for the passenger till he/ she finishes the caves.

One small rocky hill with very old temples which are mainly in a worn out stage ostensibly due to natural wear and tear and not any human outrage on account of faith of a different kind which was the case in Sanchi.

The to and fro journey is a pleasurable experience with green paddy fields to as far as one could see bordered by hills at a distance.
The ongoing work of an over bridge once completed would take away the pain of waiting at the railway gate at Sanchi.

Tribal Museum Bhopal

A thrilling experience full of wonder and awe at the art and craft legacy of the different tribal groups in India with special emphasis on M P , Maharashtra and Orissa.

With a natural history museum nearby , was in two minds at first , but once inside fell into a trance.
The way in which things are arranged and the colour combinations and architecture is to be seen to be believed.


Quite a few thinking minds with aesthetic sense galore might have been behind such a wonderful museum and to this writer's opinion , this one is perhaps the best in the country.

Khajuraho

Much has been heard and written about the temples and what this visitor tried to focus was the myriad patterns on rocks attempted by various artists of yore , which are popular everywhere .. be it on textiles , structures , graphics or jewellery.

Monday, February 26, 2018

Gujrat Rajasthan

Kochuveli Bikaner Express was on time that day at Ahmedabad .
Ought to catch up with the Heritage Walk Team which is to start off from Sri Swami Narayan Temple , Kalupur.
Of course , Kalupur is the place name where the main railway station Ahmedabad Junction is also located ; but the auto was taking more time than what was thought.
The time is 8 am .
Called up the phone number given in the site and the person responded that the team already set off and that I could join them in the adjacent haveli.
Yes : the team comprising some fifteen or so members were to be seen from a distance and there is no time to empty one's bladder. Well , that could be done on the way .. perhaps.

The First Haveli

Every 'Pol' has a gate and the name of haveli written on it.
A first haveli from the Swaminarayan Temple end has the idol of a commoner with traditional turban with a book in his lap .. he is in fact engaged in making a book using coarse paper.
A visitor could sit in his lap for being photographed as well.

Traditional merchant idol in Haveli No.1




He used to sit at the entrance doing his duty - be it book binding or some other craft and the visitor could move to anyone engaged in such work and purchase wares directly - no middlemen !
The other sights in the havelis we walked through had more surprises in store.

Haveli not exclusively for humans !

It is said that , for making these havelis , plenty of trees had to be uprooted resulting in the animals and birds losing their food and shelter - especially squirrels and birds.

Therefore, every household has some place for them too !
Be it some holes on the walls complete with an entrance and a small decorated parapet or a rough finish on the wall , meant for good grip to squirrels.
There could be seen arrangements for drinking water and wires for perching on most terraces.
Well .. some sight it was.
How considerate these people were!
                                                              Living space for birds

Everyone in the haveli we went through were engaged in some chores or the other but were unmindful of our intrusion ; perhaps they are quite used to it.

                                                   A couple from France getting a feel



Though each haveli was meant to accommodate a group of people of a particular faith - be it Islam, Hinduism or Jainism (the absence of a Buddhist haveli perhaps is an indication that the faith which once held sway across the length and breadth of India perished by then , with no trace !)

                                            An artificial tree for birds with places for perching and food




Each haveli sticks to its culture , tradition and faith but at the same time is in harmony with the other havelis and the secret passage every haveli possessed to the neighboring havelis is an indication enough that , when the time comes for them to stand united in front of an external attack, they were not alone.
                                                               Wood work


The wood work of some of the walls and entrances stands testimony to Gujrati style of craftsmanship on wood.
                                                       Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad




The Heritage Walk progressed through the secret passage and entered a market area where the main wares were books and from there to the famous Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad,

The mosque can accommodate about 10,000 people in its courtyard for prayers.
The architecture is a mix of traditional Hindu, Mughal and Christian styles.

Its time for a bite and where else but the favourite of The Mahatma. Indeed Gandhi had his favourite restaurant in Ahmedabad .
Had heard of 'Chandravilas Restaurant' but never got an opportunity to visit.
A stone throw away from the Masjid.

Chandravilas Restaurant


                                           
The owner keeps it a point to stick to the tradition and not much change is allowed in the interiors.
Photographs of important customers adorn the walls and the list is a who is who in India.

  Sidi Syed Mosque at Lal Darwaja










The marble window panel which inspired embroidery enthusiasts in the past few centuries is something special for this old mosque.

           Image result for sidi saiyyed mosque shia       

Sardar Patel Park     


Close to the Sidi Mosque is the park dedicated to the Iron Man of India where one could rest for a while

Sabarmati Ashram

A visit to Ahmedabad would be incomplete without a visit to the Gandhi Ashram.





             Sat at the spinning wheel to get a feel  


                   

The Dutch Cemetery at Kankaria Lake


                             

Jhulta Minara or Shaking Towers

Image result for jhulta minara ahmedabad


Situated close to Ahmedabad Junction railway station , these minarets still keep intact the secrecy of
"why would one minaret shake if a visitor to the other jumped up and down in the other ?".

The British wanted to know the secret and in fact opened up some minarets in Ahmedabad but failed to unravel the mystery.

Mout Abu , Rajasthan

The summer resort station Mount Abu hosts the most beautiful temple of all The Dilwara Temples
A poetry in marble.
Nowhere else in the world can one find a structure similar.

Words fail to measure the wonder

Image result for dilwara temple mount abu images







One would have to pinch onself in to believing whether what one sees in front  are real because these are not done on wood or clay , but on solid marble that too some 1000 years back !!

Image result for dilwara temple mount abu images

Visitors are taken in and moved out in a jiffy because of rush.
Hope they allowed one to spend some hours inside !


Image result for dilwara temple mount abu images








A Grecian Urn caused such an awe and wonder in John Keats to pen down his masterpiece.
And if he ever had a chance to visit Dilwara what would have happened ?

Image result for dilwara temple mount abu images








How could they do this in the absence of good instruments in those days ? If you have not seen Dilwara temples in your life , well you have seen nothing !




Image result for dilwara temple mount abu images


Nakki Lake and Sunset Point

These spots at Mount Abu are locations meant for people out on picnic .
An enthusiast after getting out of Dilwara Temples move around in an intoxicated mindset and these sights just pass. That's all.

Nakki Lake , Mount Abu









The odyssey ended thus .


Sikkim

Sikkim , Darjeeling It was a long time wish to travel to the north east but never found time to do so. The fifteen years in Calcutta gave...