Thursday, September 11, 2014

South Karnataka Trip

06/08/2014

It has been years since Belur was haunting and for a while wondered whether what R.K.Narayanin his short story tiled “The Image” was for real and Jaganachari – the master craftsman who crafted most of the idols at Belur a reality or myth.
The Karnataka Tourism site carried an item on this legendary sculptor whom one would have to place on a pedestal much above those of say a Davinci or a Michaelangelo.
Started off from Kozhikode by Parasuram Express on 6th Sept 2014 and the train  left the platform some one hour late. As for company- none else but the rain.
The compartment was packed as it was First Onam and all and sundry were in a hurry to reach homes for the big day the following day ie: Thiruvonam.
The journey via coastal Kerala was wonderful as it is always with tracks aligned mostly close to the coast and the hide and seek of train and sea the usual stuff.
By 9.15pm it was at Mangalore Central (MAQ) , hurriedly took a quick meal comprising hot chapathi and veg kurma from a restaurant and checked in to middle class Hotel Hindustan. Drizzling continued and most shops Fruits ready in the bag came handy for the rest of appetite.

07/08/2014

Started early and caught Dharmastala bound KSRTC (Karnataka) bus from Jyoti Bus stop for the two hour journey. Reached the place by 7 am. Lined up for depositing luggage free of charge. Next it was for footwear and hurriedly got in the maze of partitioned enclosure for Darshan “Q”- a popular sight in most temples.
The Manjunatha Temple attracts millions and the Bahubali monolith image on the opposite mountain is a holy site of the Jains equally regarded by other faiths.
Came out by 8.30am and took a modest breakfast of idlis from nearby restaurant, caught a bus for Ujire from where another one to Mudigere and a third one to Belur.
The time 12.30 AN.
Accommodation was arranged at Mayura Velapuri and the room was convenient.
Took lunch from their restaurant and walked straight to Chennakeshava Temple.
Oh, my. I have been waiting to reach the place for years and its really worth the wait.
Erected some 900 years back, the hard work of thousands of sculptors (who never went to any art schools for sure) worked incessantly for 103 years to make this masterpiece which is yet to get its due for connoisseurs across the globe. The public in the periphery too seems unaware of its real worth I suppose.
More was waiting in the late afternoon at Halebidu, but time ran out and had to return to the Hotel.
Next time shall come with at least two days to spend at these two sites.
What  is worth mentioning is the great work done and still being done by The Archeological Survey of  India in restoring most of the work and in displaying many at Halebidu.
The mowed lawn grass , the restored Bahubali and the garden at Halebidu leaves a lasting impression.

08/08/2014

Got out from the Hotel by 7.30 am and headed for Hassan in KSRTC.
The bus stations in Karnataka are good and there is facility for toilets at every station free of cost.
The Indian mindset’s tendency to attend nature’s call by the wayside can only be avoided if such facilities are arranged at public places free of cost, lest the cost we pay for ill fame would outweigh.
The KTDC Mayura Hotels are doing a good job as well by maintaining chain of hotels with neatness and hospitality. Kerala Tourism may, if they could take a leaf out of….
From Hassan to Chennarayapatna by Bangalore bound KSRTC and from there chain service non stop KSRTC available for Sravanabelegola or Belegola for short.
The Jain Temples and the huge rock opposite to it with the huge Bahubali statue erected some 1000 years back is worth a visit. One really feels insignificant. 
Back to the foot of the mountain by 2.30pm and was really hungry. A sign board " Jain Bhojanalaya" caught the eye.  A  modest home and a banian – dhoti clad man in his 60s with a broad smile to greet the visitor took me inside. Sat on a mat on the floor and had a vegetarian meal complete with chapatti , rice, papad and the usual curries. The walls had several pictures of Digambar Jain Sadhus.
Back to Chennarayapatna and from there caught a Mysore bound bus for Srirangapatna.
By the time checked in to the hotel, time was 4.30pm. At least 30 mts to get freshen up for Brindavan which is some 45 mts away. Though not on the heritage list, how could someone miss the place.
No.307 KSRTC takes one to Pump House stoppage and from there its No.303 up to  Brindavan.
It was 6.30 by the time the garden came to view.
Spent some 40 mts walking around and came back to Hotel to have a modest meal of fruits.

09/08/2014

Somanathapura is some 30 kms from Srirangapatna and normally the journey need to be broken in half with the first stretch up to Bannur.
Those who had seen Belur and Halebidu get no surprises there as most of the works are similar.
The Archeological Survey people did a good job there as well. As for food - Well ;  one may have to carry from city if the visitor has any plan to spend more  hours.
Back to Bannur and from there to Mysore with lot more to see in Srirangapatna, if time permitted in the AN.
Mysore palace rather filled this visitors mind with anger most of the time. Such squandering of public wealth at a time when people never had two square meals a day !
Chamundi Hills was viewed from far and St.Philomina’s architecture appreciated with mouth agape.
The Rail Museum turned out to be an anti climax with the Maharani’s toilet cabin among the other exhibits arousing the same sort of anger from deep within and that was Mysore with no more time left to see what really mattered!
Could have spent more time at Somanathapura and felt bad in missing out Gumbaz and Daria Daulath (his palace) and the garden in front. Of course got a glimpse from the bus the site where his body lay after the war ended.

10/09/2014

Boarded bus for Gudalur for which booking was done. The journey was worth touching both Bandipur and Mudumalai Tiger Reserves. Monkeys and deers were plenty and no elephants in sight as expected.
The roads on the Karnataka side is seen well maintained and the undergrowth on road sides cleared.



Reached Gudalur at around 12.30 AN, which is only 3 hours from home.

*Courtesies to Sri.Kamat for the photographs

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